Samurai FAQ

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Credit for this write up goes to NC Zuk On zuwharrie.com

Suzuki FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions)

We get a lot of questions from Suzuki owners, and we certainly don't mind answering them. But since so many people have the same questions, it's sometimes easier to direct newbies to a FAQ where their questions are already answered. Plus, not everyone wants to wait around for us to get back to them with an answer that could already be available on our site. As we gather more information and answer more of your questions, we will continue to update our FAQ. If you have a question that we haven't already answered here, don't hesitate to post up in the Sammi Tech Forum. And of course, if it appears we've made a mistake or have incomplete information that you can add to, please let us know!

Table of Contents

General Information
What is a Samurai?
What other names has it gone by around the world?
What years were they produced?
What configurations were available?
How capable are they off-road?
What major changes did Suzuki make to the Samurai during the time it was sold in America?

Common Modifications
Traction Adding Devices (TADs)
Automatic Lockers
Manual Lockers
Limited Slip Differentials
Increasing Horsepower
1300 Performance Modifications
Suzuki Engine Swaps
Other Engine Swaps
Suspension Modifications
Spring-Over-Axle Conversion (SPOA)
Arched Springs
Shackle Reversal
Extended Shackles
Hinged Shackles
1/4-Elliptic
3/4-Elliptic
Coil Springs
Body Lift
Skidplating
Belly Pan
Rocker Panels
Axles
Bumpers


Common Problems
Engine hesitation
Transmission shift lever wobbles or is stuck
Transfer case pops into neutral or shift lever is stuck
Clutch won't slip properly
Excessive steering wheel slop
Steering wheel off-center
Starter motor clicks when ignition key is turned
Proper flat-towing procedure


General Information

What is a Samurai?
Samurai is the name Suzuki used in the North American market for their small, rugged 4x4. Based on the basic design of the original Willys military Jeep, Suzuki improved on the design in every way, yet retained the same basic layout and dimensions. The end result was a lighter, stronger, more powerful, longer lasting, and more comfortable 4x4 with even greater on- and off-road capabilities. As Suzuki's successor to their earlier LJ-series 4x4s, the Samurai was responsible for Suzuki's successful entry into the U.S. market, and remains Suzuki's American sales leader. Due to its affordability, capability, and a plethora of aftermarket support, the Samurai has a loyal following of 4x4 enthusiasts, ranging from the occasional backwoods driver to the competitive rockcrawler.


What other names has it gone by around the world?
Suzuki Samurai (Europe, North America, Pacific Islands), SJ-410 (Japan, North America, Pacific Islands), SJ-413 (Japan, Canada, Pacific Islands), Jimny (Japan, Europe), Jimny Wide (Japan, Europe), Sierra (Australia), Santana (Spain, Europe, Pacific Islands), Caribian and Caribian Sporty (Southeast Asia), Katana (Indonesia), and Potohar (Pakistan). Maruti Gypsy (India). Chevrolet Samurai (South America). Holden Drover (Australia). Mazda AZ-Offroad (Japan).


What years were they produced?
The official introduction of the Samurai in the United States was for the 1986 model year, although a few SJ-410s were unofficially brought in by various means before then. Suzuki stopped exporting them to California in 1994, and the rest of the country in 1995. For the rest of the world, Suzuki had begun production of the SJ-series in 1982, and continues to build them today in several different factories. In many countries, the leaf-sprung model is sold alongside the later coil-sprung model and the all-new Jimny.


What configurations were available?
In the United States, Suzuki only imported the short-wheelbase, widetrack, leaf-sprung, 1.3-liter, 5-speed hardtop and convertible. Other parts of the world saw the availability of the 1.0-liter gasoline and 1.9-liter Peugeot and Renault diesel four-cylinder engines, a 4-speed transmission, narrow-track axles, and short- and long-wheelbase versions including raised Panaramic roofs, a crew cab, extended passenger versions, and two different pickup styles (solid or hinged bed sides). An elusive automatic transmission was listed in Suzuki's brochure, but exceptionally few examples of them have ever been seen. 1996 saw a redesign of the suspension at some of the factories, replacing the leaf springs with coils and control arms. In 1998 came the introduction of the new Jimny in various countries, which is basically the replacement for - but sold alongside - the Samurai. Available in narrow- and widetrack versions with either a hardtop or convertible with coil-sprung live axles and a true 4-wheel-drive system, it is true to the design of the original SJ-series.


How capable are they off-road?
Suzukis are very good off-roaders right from the factory. Unlike many sport-utility vehicles nowadays, the Samurai is equipped with a true part-time 4-wheel-drive transfer case with low range gears, solid axles front and rear, and manual-locking hubs. The overall design of the drivetrain and frame are well beyond anything a stock Samurai would need on-road or off. Even with lower gears and lockers in both axles, the drivetrain is good for 33-inch tires or larger, depending on driving style and terrain. With its light weight, small size, and some appropriate modifications, a Samurai can go anywhere other vehicles can go, and will usually go further even with fewer mods. On top of all that, the cost of a Samurai's buildup is a mere fraction of that of any other 4x4.


What major changes did Suzuki make to the Samurai during the time it was sold in America?
Suzuki followed Volkswagen's philosophy with the Beetle in their decision to design the Samurai to be a good, simple vehicle which they would refine - not change - over the course of its lifetime. Many refinements were made over the years, but comparing a 95 to an 86 shows how little was really changed.
1986: First year offered in the U.S: metal side- and rear-view mirrors, round dashboard vents, small plastic shifter knobs, 0.795 5th-gear ratio, 4-pin front differential, carbureted 1324-cc 64-hp engine, triangle-spoke wheels.
1987: Larger, plastic side- and rear-view mirrors, longer passenger-side front seat tracks, larger, more reclined rear seat.
1988: "Strange" year for Samurais, as they progessively implemented changes to 88.5 model year, so not all have every 88.5 changes.
1988.5: Redesigned dashboard with square vents, new leaf springs with teflon pads and softer ride, thicker anti-sway bar, 0.864 5th-gear ratio, big rubber shifter knobs, slight change to the grille, bigger radiator, larger pinion and transfer case driveshaft flanges, round-hole wheels.
1990: Throttle body fuel injection added to new 1298-cc 66-hp version of the engine, transmission and transfer case bearings changed to sealed design, 2-pin front differential, 2-wheel-drive models offered.
1993: New grille design.
1994: Rear seat option removed, last year sold in California.
1995: Last year sold in U.S.A.


Common Modifications

Traction Adding Devices (TADs)
In a stock open differential, power is normally transferred to both wheels through the differential. When a slippery surface is encountered, such as ice or mud, power will be transferred to whichever tire has the least traction. A Traction Adding Device in one or both differentials addresses this shortcoming off-road with varying degrees of impact on street driving characteristics. A TAD can often be the one deciding factor on whether a truck can make it through a trail or not, which is why they are so common. With the explosion in the Samurai's popularity, there are many options available:


Automatic Lockers:
Automatic lockers are by far the most popular Traction Adding Device, manufactured by Tractech (Detroit EZ-Locker) and Powertrax (Lock-Right). These inexpensive ($190-250) units replace the spider gears (and optionally the sidegears) inside the carrier and do not allow for either halfshaft to spin slower than the ring gear. These units will unlock around a turn, however, allowing the outside wheel to free-wheel until its speed again matches that of the ring gear. They provide 100% lockup, so they are ideal for difficult off-roading. They are noticeable when driven on the street, but are not so intrusive as to be unsuitable for daily-driven vehicles. Their high price/performance ratio keeps them extremely popular. Unless your stock sidegears are damaged, there is no reason to spend the extra money to get the optional sidegears. Both designs work equally well. Are they safe to use in the snow? Read the article found in our Tech section.


Manual Lockers:
Manual lockers provide 100% lockup on the trail and 0% lockup for the street, controlled in-cab at the driver's discretion via a cable or an electrically-triggered air valve. As a result, they are the most street-friendly lockers available, while still providing traction when needed. This does, however, come at a substantial cost and complexity over that of an automatic locker. ARB's Air Locker is the only readily-available manual locker for Suzukis, and it is known for its reliability.

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Limited Slip Differentials:
A Limited Slip Differential typically uses clutches or within the differential to progressively lock the speed of the two axleshafts more tightly as their speed differentiates. It operates in much the same way as an automatic locker, locking and unlocking automatically. As a result, it is very street friendly and provides much more traction than an open differential. It does not provide 100% lockup like a locker does, however, but this can be advantageous for those who wish to reduce the chance of axle breakage while retaining most of the benefits a locker provides. Limited Slip Differentials should not be used for heavy-duty or extended off-road use, however, as they quickly overheat and will wear out prematurely. Another type of Limited Slip Differential, called a Viscous Limited Slip Differential, works on the same theory as an automatic transmission's torque converter. Using fluid to transfer a percentage of the torque from the spinning wheel to the tractive wheel, traction is enhanced but still does not provide full differential lockup. Viscous Limited-Slips are not as prone to wearing out, but they will easily overheat and are not to be considered a viable replacement for a true locker for off-road use.


Increasing Horsepower
While the 1.3-liter engine has plenty of power for a stock Suzuki, big tires and increased wind resistance on modified trucks quickly overcomes the stock engine. Low gears can solve this problem in most off-road situations, but highway-driven Zuks need more power. There are many options that have become available.


1300 Performance Modifications:
For its size, a 1300 makes a lot of power, but there is a lot of room left to come up with more. A 1300 can be built to do 3rd-gear burnouts while still being very street-friendly. Bolt-on mods that will net more power include a new carburetor (single downdraft Weber or Pony, dual sidedraft Webers or Mikunis), a new cam, a header with 2-inch exhaust, and high-compression pistons. Traditional hot-rodding tricks, including porting & polishing the intake, milling the head, boring the cylinders up to 40-thousandths over, and other tricks require taking the engine to a machine shop. To summon up a lot of power, a Suzuki Swift GT 1300 bottom end can be bolted on, as can the 8-valve head from an early 1600 Suzuki Sidekick or a Tracker (for its larger valves) or the 16-valve 1600 head from the later 'Kicks. A swap to the later Samurai's throttle body fuel injection is another fairly easy upgrade.


Suzuki Engine Swaps:
There are many options when it comes to performing an engine swap into a Samurai. The simplest swap is the 8-valve 1600 from a Sidekick or Tracker, which can be bolted in with an engine swap kit available from several Suzuki aftermarket vendors. This should give a significant increase in power and torque while being straightforward and affordable, and provides the option of either carburetion or TBFI. For even more power, the 16-valve 1600 from the later year Sidekicks and Trackers can bolt in with a kit, retaining its multi-port fuel injection or swapping to carburetion for simplicity. The 1600 engines can be used with the Samurai's transmission with an adapter, or the transmission from a 2-wheel-drive Sidekick or Tracker with modification to the transmission tunnel and a shortened intermediate shaft. Other Suzuki engines have been swapped into Samurais, including the 16-valve 1300 from the Swift GT, the 1800 from a Sidekick Sport, and the 2000 from the new Vitara. The ultimate would be the 2500 V6 from the Grand Vitara or the 2700 V6 from the Grand Vitara XL-7.


Other Engine Swaps:
Swap kits for a few other engines have been developed for the Samurai, including the Ford V6s, the Chevy 4.3-liter V6, and the Volkswagen turbo diesel. These kits have been adapted to other engines, and others have done custom engine swaps, including Chevy and Ford small-block V8s, the GM Quad 4, Pinto 2300s, Volkswagen gasoline engines, and the Mazda rotary engine.

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There are so many different suspension modification options available for the Samurai, deciding which one is right for you can be a daunting task. There are lifts to meet every budget, terrain type, and personal preference, ranging from mild to wild. Every lift is different, however, because each one affects the vehicle's handling uniquely. The point of a lift, of course, is to improve the off-road capability of the vehicle by allowing the use of larger tires and by increasing the vehicle's ability to articulate the axles, keeping the tires planted firmly on the ground where they can get grip. But with every lift, there are compromises. More extreme suspension modifications will ideally yield better off-road performance, but this usually comes at the expense of on-road driveability. Even two identical types of lift can result in different performance as a result of countless factors, but generalizations can be made. The more off-road oriented a lift is, the more it can be expected to drive differently than the stock setup, and the more it will typically cost. Also depending on your own particular needs, the different suspension modifications can oftentimes be combined so that their improvements compliment each other and become greater than the sum of their parts.


Spring-Over-Axle Conversion (SPOA):
The Spring-Over-Axle (SPOA) conversion is by far the most popular due in no small part to its well-roundedness. SPOAs perform well in any terrain. By relocating the axles from above to below the leaf springs, an easy 4.5 inches (or more) of lift can be obtained with minimal cost and complexity, allowing the use of 32 inch tires. Additionally, this type of lift yields a substantial increase in articulation, an improved ride, and very good on-road manners if built properly. The price can vary a lot, from $250-$700 from a shop, or less than $100 if you build it yourself. It also allows for future modifications, since lifted springs, new shackles, and other mods will work well with it. Other components that will be affected by a SPOA include driveshaft angles and length, steering geometry, brake line and shock absorber length. Welding the new spring pads to the axle housings also requires setting proper spring pad angles and making sure that the welds do not cause any damage.


Arched Springs:
Lift springs are a very easy way to fit larger tires and gain articulation, since they simply bolt on in place of the stock springs. Arched springs are available in several different heights to tailor the suspension to your individual needs, allowing for up to 31 inch tires. The additional distance between the frame and the axles allows for an increase in articulation. Some brands of springs are stiffer than stock, which is good for load-carrying ability, but is bad for articulation and ride quality. Too-soft of a spring can yield less-than-expected lift height and poor on-road handling, but luckily this hasn't seemed to be much of a problem for Suzukis. The price for a set of lift springs is usually between $200-400, and they preserve the ability for future suspension modifications. Other components that the additional spring height will affect are driveshaft angles and length, steering geometry, brake line and shock absorber length.


Shackle Reversal:
A shackle reversal refers to a change in the front springs' mounting points. Shackle reversals yield a small increase in lift, but are generally designed to be more of a geometry change for altered handling characteristics than to be an actual lift kit. The shackle reversal moves the spring shackle from the front of the front springs to the rear, and moves the solid mount to the front of the springs. This usually gives around 2 inches of lift, due to the new spring mounts and shackles, which is enough to allow for 225/75 tires. The stock (factory) front spring and shackle setup's suspension geometry results in the front axle moving forward on compression and moving rearward on droop. A shackle reversal reverses this, causing the front axle to move rearward on compression and forward on droop. This results in a slightly improved ride since the wheels can more easily roll over bumps, which also creates a key improvement in off-road ability, allowing a tire to smoothly climb vertically without causing any bindup for the other 3 tires to contend with as they roll forward. However, this suspension setup does require compromises. Brake dive and body roll are increased, since the front axle wants to move rearward under compression. Tire rub becomes more of an issue for the same reason, where the tire contacts the rearward portion of the front wheelwell sooner. Poorly-designed front spring hangers are oftentimes called "fangs" because they hang so far down below the frame, sometimes causing approach angle problems in rough terrain. On more extreme off-road trails where articulation becomes a serious factor, driveshaft separation from droop, and bottoming out of the slip yoke from compression, can lead to the vehicle getting stuck or experiencing damage, especially to the transfer case. For street and light-duty off-road use, a truck with a shackle reversal would not experience these more serious problems, but for more difficult off-road trails, a custom long-travel front driveshaft is necessary. Shackle reversals can be welded or bolted on, and are available from around $250. On its own, a shackle reversal's benefits are limited by the capabilities of the springs, thus it is best used in conjunction with other suspension modifications. A shackle reversal can be combined with arched springs or a SPOA, or designed to accomodate longer, wider springs.


Extended Shackles:
Installing longer shackles is one of the easiest modifications that can be made to a Samurai. By simply replacing the stock shackles with a set of longer, stronger ones, up to 2 inches of lift - enough for 225/75 tires - can be had at minimal cost and complication. A pair of longer shackles can also be used front or rear to level out an uneven front/rear suspension height. A little increase in articulation and a slightly smoother ride come as a result of a shackle lift, due to more distance between the axle and the bumpstops. The tradeoffs to using longer shackles are the fact that like a shackle reversal, the ends of the springs are pushed down lower to the ground, hurting the approach and departure angles. Also, a little increase in wander in the steering can be felt, since the front axle gets rolled forward, reducing the caster. Due to the slight change in suspension height, the steering geometry is changed enough to cause a minor amount of bump steer. Longer shackles also allow for the springs to have more leverage against the shackle bushings, adding a bit more "slop" to the handling. Oftentimes this is imperceptible, but the use of polyurethane bushings to replace the factory rubber bushings can help minize this. It is for these reasons that shackles more than 4 inches longer than stock are strongly discouraged. For a small amount of lift, though, longer shackles are a highly rated option, especially for a tight budget. A full set of shackles can be easily built or purchased for under $150.


Hinged Shackles:
Hinged shackles are a variation on the 3/4-elliptic suspension setup. These special jointed shackles allow for an essentially bolt-on increase in articulation. There are a few different variants on the market for use with stock-length springs, but the maximum benefit comes from the variants that utilize longer leaf springs, which provide a smoother ride and greater wheel travel at the expense of necessitating frame extensions and new springs. Hinged shackles are fully useable on a daily-driven vehicle and the cost is surprisingly low. However, due to the great amount of increase in wheel travel, longer shock absorbers, brake lines, and oftentimes driveshafts are also required.


1/4-Elliptic:
1/4-elliptic suspensions are a variation of the standard leaf-spring setup, and classified under the "extreme" category. Replacing the stock suspension setup - which uses a 1/2-elliptic spring - with a shorter leaf spring pack that terminates at the axle instead of a shackle, a great deal of wheel travel can be attained. Properly set up, a 1/4-elliptic suspended vehicle should be safe on the road, but generally it is used only on the trail. A 1/4-elliptic setup requires a great deal of modification, relegating it to those owners with a lot of fabrication experience, a bigger budget, and a second vehicle for use as a daily driver.


3/4-Elliptic:
Like the 1/4 elliptic suspension, the 3/4-elliptic setup (often called a "buggy spring" or "buggy leaf") is a variation of the standard leaf-spring setup, and intended for maximum articulation off-road. Adding to the standard 1/2-elliptic factory setup another 1/2-length spring from the shackle to the frame above the axle, a 3/4-elliptic setup should be driveable on the street while articulating very well on the trail. Although an easier modification than a 1/4-elliptic setup, the 3/4-elliptic suspension is usually tackled only by those who drive their vehicles primarily off-road and who have the fabrication skills and a backup vehicle at their disposal.


Coil Springs:
Coil spring suspension conversions are capable of providing the greatest increase in wheel travel and the smoothest, most controlled ride. However, this comes at great cost and complexity compared to other suspension upgrades. Usually set up similarly to a 1/4-elliptic design (but utilizing coil springs rather than 1/2-leaf springs) a lot of modifications must be made. The end result, though, is the best suspension available.

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Body Lift:
Although not technically a suspension modification, a body lift can still be effective in increasing tire clearance and allowing for more suspension travel. Body lifts are best used when a little extra tire clearance is required when you want to leave the suspension alone. By putting spacers between the body and frame, up to 3 inches of lift can safely be attained. Keep in mind that a body lift affects such things as the shift levers, bumper height, and underhood connections. However, body lifts are cheap (around $100) and fairly easy, and do not create steering geometry problems and suspension alterations. A simple, small body lift for a Samurai can even be made by simply flipping the stock body mounts upside-down.


Skidplating:
Skidplating is a very important part of any off-road vehicle. Drivetrain or body damage can easily happen as a result of even one rock or log. The cost of a skidplate is much less than the cost and time spent replacing a damaged part.


Belly Pan:
Probably the most important skidplate on a truck, the belly pan skidplate spans from frame rail to frame rail between the front and rear wheels, protecting the transfer case. Plus, when maxing the breakover angle, the transfer case is made very vulnerable. Since over a thousand dollars can be invested into the transfer case, an investment in a belly pan skidplate is important. With a strong one, the ability to safely slide the truck over a hump, a log, or a rock without causing terminal damage to your transfer case is critical.


Rocker Panels:
On rocky trails especially, the rocker panels are especially vulnerable. Without some strong skidplate protection, the rocker panels can cave in, preventing the doors from opening or closing. With a good, strong skidplate or nerf bar, the ability to put the front wheel over a tall rock and slide the body along it until the rear wheel can crawl over it can make a big difference.


Axles:
A set of axle skidplates can save your truck from an unseen rock or allow the axles to slide across rocks that are too big to get over any other way. Sets of pumpkin caps, trusses, or full-length skidplates are available for less than the cost of replacing a bent axle or damaged differential.


Bumpers:
On tougher trails, a good set of bumpers can definitely come into use as skidplates, protecting the body from big rocks. Although bumpers are typically used for on-road protection and for mounting winches and tire carriers, a well-designed bumper can increase trail clearance and make it easier to slide over an obstacle.


Common Problems


Engine hesitation:
The stock carburetor has a flat-spot around 3000rpm. This is caused by the drop in vacuum in the manifold through the vent hole in the secondary throttle plate, causing the secondary to not open properly. The simple addition of an inexpensive carburetor vent tube will cure this problem. This OEM part is available from several of the Suzuki aftermarket companies.


Transmission shift lever wobbles or is stuck:
The shift lever locating pin can be broken, causing the stock transmission's shift lever to become very loose. The broken piece of the pin can get wedged in there, and the shift lever can become misaligned. The broken piece can also become wedged in the gears and lock up the transmission or chip the gears' teeth. A new shift lever locating pin, which is just a special 12mm bolt with a pin sticking out the end of it, can be purchased from a dealer or several of the Suzuki aftermarket manufacturers. To install the shift lever properly, make sure the linkage inside the transmission is properly aligned and it should go right in.


Transfer case pops into neutral or shift lever is stuck:
The transfer case shifter "sheet" wears out, causing it to either become stuck or to slip out of gear on its own. This is an inexpensive part that can be purchased from a dealer or any of several Suzuki aftermarket companies and easily installed.


Clutch won't slip properly:
The first thing to check is that the clutch cable is in good shape. The cable can become frayed within its housing, causing it to stick or have rough engagement. Replace it with a Genuine Suzuki clutch cable, as the aftermarket replacements are not known for their quality. If the clutch will not smoothly engage regardless of its adjustment or condition, it could be due to the bushings being worn out on the clutch release shaft within the transmission. This causes the throwout bearing to stick on the transmission's input shaft, which prevents a smooth engagement of the clutch.


Excessive steering wheel slop:
If your steering wheel turns more than about 1/2-inch without turning the pitman arm, then it should be tightened. On top of the steering box at the end of the steering shaft there is a lock nut and adjusting screw. While the preload of the worm shaft can be precisely set at 1.58 to 2.63 kg, it is not necessary to measure it. Tighten the adjusting screw a little, and check the steering slop. Keep tightening and checking it progressively until there is less than 1/2-inch of slop in the steering wheel. Be very careful not to overtighten it. Before driving, check the full travel of the steering to make sure there aren't any stiff spots anywhere in its travel, and loosen it if there are. If the steering is still loose on-center when it's tightened to the point of binding up while it's turned off-center, your steering box's worm gear is worn and no amount of adjustment will completely cure it; a replacement steering box is the only cure. The steering box rarely fails, so replacement is purely to rid the sloppy on-center feel.


Steering wheel off-center:
From the factory, the steering wheel comes properly aligned and shouldn't change unless the truck is lifted or some of the steering linkage gets bent. Rather than recentering the steering wheel, the proper way to re-center the steering wheel is by fixing the problem, not the symptom. Lifting the truck without addressing the steering not only causes bumpsteer, but also reduces the steering angle to the right, increasing it to the left. A new drag link of the proper length will set the steering wheel angle back to its proper alignment. If you don't want to address the steering geometry, you must remove the steering wheel and re-center it on the steering shaft's splines. Pull on the horn button at the steering wheel's hub to remove it, and loosen the nut at the center. A puller is almost always required to remove the wheel from its splines the first time. Reposition it, and tighten the nut back down before reinstalling the horn button.


Starter motor clicks when ignition key is turned:
This is a common problem where the starter will only click when the ignition key is turned, rather than starting the motor. There are several possible causes of this. Typically, if the battery is in good shape and is fully charged with good connections, the starter's problem could be caused by a bad key ignition switch, a loose, corroded, or broken wire at the starter, a corroded solenoid plunger, a bad clutch pedal lockout switch, or worn brushes within the starter. Typically, this problem is caused by too-little voltage getting to the starter motor due to age and corrosion all along the ignition system and in the ignition and clutch pedal switches. Many Suzuki owners go for years without fixing it, just becoming accustomed to turning the key repeatedly, clicking several times before it'll start. Others have wasted money on new or rebuilt starters, only to find that the problem persists. The least expensive fix is to use the wire going from the ignition as the trigger for a 30-amp relay going from the battery to the starter.


Proper flat-towing prcedure:
To tow your Samurai with all four wheels on the ground, follow this procedure to ensure you do not damage your vehicle's drivetrain: Front hubs unlocked, key in the ignition with the steering wheel unlocked, transmission in 2nd gear, transfer case in neutral. Suzuki recommends that every 200 miles, the engine is started up and allowed to run with the transmission in gear and the transfer case in neutral so that the oil in the transfer case can circulate through the bearings, but most owners just do this at every gas stop, allowing the Samurai to idle in gear as they fill up their tow rig. Alternately, you can remove the rear driveshaft when towing, which keeps the transfer case from turning so all you need to do is make sure you have the front hubs unlocked and have the key in the ignition to keep the steering unlocked.